Lotions and creams are emulsified blends of oil and water made to nourish and moisturize skin.
It's best if the oil and water mixtures are around the same temperature when combined and warm to hot. The best emulsifier is wax, which is added to the oil mixture before blending. It is best to melt the wax into the oil, but be careful because some oils, like avocado oil, cannot withstand high heat. Butters, honey, essential and fragrance oils are also melted into the oil blend. Aloe vera, extracts, teas and tinctures are added to the water blend. Powders can be added to the oil or water mixture.
Cool down the oil and water mixes slightly before blending so hot liquid and gas do not force themselves out of the blender or bowl and burn you. Use your thermometer to determine temperatures. Cover and blend or beat in a bowl for at least one minute on medium. Allow your lotion to cool down a little and blend or beat again, this time for 2 minutes. You may need to do this a few more times... 30 seconds each time... to get a perfect consistency. I always let it sit for an hour covered. I stir it every fifteen minutes with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula, to get out all of the air.
Use a funnel if you have to and pour your lotion into sterilized containers. Always wait until your blend is room temperature before containing it. It's important not to heat up plastic and release toxins into your precious mixture. And, even if you use glass, there are many air bubbles in a hot mixture.
Start simple and write down every recipe that blended perfect, even if you aren't happy with other qualities like scent or color. This will help you learn your groove in ratios. The successful combination of oil and water is easily thrown off balance. Don't be discouraged when some of your blends come out separated or coagulated. It still even happens to me every now and then when I am experimenting with new blends. Just learn from it.
Keep your new lotion or cream refrigerated until you are ready to use it up. If you don't use preservatives, it may only last a week at room temperature. If you do use natural preservatives, it should last at least 6 weeks at room temperature.
What is pH?
PH is short for the power of Hydrogen. It's the measure of acidity or alkalinity in a solution. In pure water at 77°F, The hydrogen ions are equal to the concentration of hydroxide ions. This is the "neutral" marking and means the pH level is 7.0. In solutions where the hydrogen ions exceed the concentration of hydroxide ions, the pH falls below 7.0 and is an acid. In solutions where the hydroxide ions exceed the concentration of hydrogen ions, the pH rises above 7.0 and is a base. In lotion you want your pH to be balanced. Too much acid can harm the skin and too much base will spoil very quickly. I keep my pH a little low. 6 is great for lotion. (Test strips are easily found on the web for cheap) Citric Acid is a great pH stabilizer used at no more than 0.3%. If you find your lotion too acidic, baking soda at no more than 0.5% should bring it back to neutral- and add a nice texture.
Here are some quick reference guidelines:
1. In lotion, never use more than 30% oil unless you like the "shiny" or even greasy after look. Sometimes I use less.
2. The least amount of water, the longer your blend will last. Try using a strong antioxidant tea or aloe vera as your water. At the very least use distilled water and bring it to a quick boil before adding to it.
3. Do your research and use ingredients that themselves are long lasting.
4. Use 1 tablespoon emulsifier or wax per ounce of oil. Melt into oil.
5. Honey is added to oil at 1% when desired.
6. When infusing herbs into oil, let them simmer for at least 3 hours. When infusing herbs into water, let them simmer at least 30-45 minutes.
7. Herbs, roots and tinctures are added to water at no more than 0.5% each and strained well.
8. Potassium sorbate and citric acid work extremely well at 0.3% and in combination with a dash of cinnamon. Dissolve in your boiled water at the beginning.
9. Always add either Vitamin E at 0.5% or Rosemary extract at 0.3%, but not both, to the oil mixture to keep the oil from going rancid and turning yellow in your lotion.
10. Stearic acid, xanthan gum or lecithin powder can be used at 1% - 2% to thicken. These are added to the oil mixture until dissolved.
11. Keep heat medium to low.
12. Don't use the microwave to heat. It changes the molecular structure of your ingredients.
13. Make sure oil and water are hot but not too hot and approximately the same temperature when mixing.
14. Use rose petals, blueberry, raspberry or citrus teas to color or fragrance if you need your lotion to last long. Berries, other flower petals and other teas work well in quick blends that may only last a week or so.
15. When using essential and fragrance oils, you usually won't need more than 1 drop per 2 ounces.
16. Do not use Cinnamon oil, it can really irritate the skin. Use the powder.
17. Make sure your blend is at room temperature or cool before adding to it's containers.
18. Don't forget to keep everything as sterile as possible.
Summary:
Your first lotion making experience should be with what you already have in your kitchen. Just remember 70% - 75% water. 25% - 30% oil. Water can be aloe vera, aloe vera juice, fruit juice, tea, distilled water, even a milky combination. Oil can be anything you like the smell of that can tolerate heat and has a nice color and texture. Add one tablespoon emulsifying wax or bees wax per ounce of oil. Follow the tips above. Start simple.
Add a drop of Vit E oil or Rosemary extract to oil to keep it from spoiling too quickly. If you use water, boil it for at least a few minutes to kill germs and bacteria and relieve it of chlorine and hard minerals. Distilled water is best. Cinnamon powder at .3% is a natural preservative everyone has in their kitchen! Recycle your bottles! Do not use crayons, food coloring or the microwave at all during lotion making. (Tea and flowers make great colorants) Use essential or fragrance oils that are non toxic. Keep it all natural and non toxic. Your skin is more sensitive than your digestive system to toxins and microwaved, deformed molecules.
Keep your "cold cream" in the refrigerator and it will last weeks! Fresh, natural lotion is best for your skin's health and youth!
I get most of my lotion making supplies from
Feel free to post your lotion tips and recipes! Thank you.
